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The curse of the gods or sewing from scratch

Did I say that I finally started to sew everything in trial version first- just to make sure that the pattern fits? I said that yes- but what did I actually do? Well my baby boy is sleeping and my patterns for the middle and top part of the pants are done so I have a bit of time for sewing… Feeling cocky from the great bottom part of my pants I went ahead and sewed the other parts without the trial version… And of course, measured it wrong… This is where the curse of the god bit comes in…

I just had to be lazy and hasty… Sometimes it`s so annoying that everything has to be made slowly and carefully and you just want to squeeze in more of actual doing and sewing (and not rehearsing) into your fee time. Ah well. Not this time…

Let`s get to sewing and techniques: Trimming for the corners, understitching to make sure your waistband stays in place. A great post for designing your contour waistband is:

Slam-dunk Contour Waistband: The Secret of Keeping Your Pants Up – Part 1

Another important thing is that you just have to start thinking about bias grain and generally what`s the direction of your fabrics grain if you are serious about sewing. If your pattern is store bought you will see those arrows on each piece of pattern telling you how you should lay each peace on the fabric. The arrow should follow the grain of the fabric. And in Burda patterns you also get a little map that tells you how you should sort your pieces on the fabric. Of course I ignored that when I first started sewing and taught those maps as silly and at best wasteful… Why should so much good material go to waste…

Well because: Fabric is more stretchy on bias, and that will make it more stretchy on you… Which is sometimes good and sometimes bad, depending on the piece of pattern you are sewing. Too much bias will make your garment ooze off of you and too little, well you won`t be able to move. In most fabric bias is on 45 degree angle if your selvage (the edge of the fabric which won`t fray) is left and right. Just read the “slam dunk contour waist band” post and you`ll see how it applies to the waist band.

In the beginning I decided  to make my jeans with an extra high waist, I just like how it combines with a cropped top. Maybe it`s because I sew, but I just feel that fashion today is more liberating and playful… All of this different styles that you can combine together, contrasting different fashion eras… But, there`s always a but. When I did my jeans skirt with an exposed zipper (my pattern but Burda has a similar skirt) I didn`t like how the fabric under the waist band stretches a bit. It`s not because it`s too large for me or something else… It`s just because your waist band has interfacing and facing that makes it firm but also it can give a bit of flexibility if you need it (it because of a little bias in the pattern-read the post “slam dunk..” and you`ll get it).

Bottom part of the skirt doesn`t have that extra support… (god it`s like I`m talking about an always commercial…). So to cut the story (and wow it`s getting long, I thought I would have just a few lines to write about-I mean it`s just pants right?) I went and made a middle part of the pants with that interfacing and facing. Think of a corset, but not as firm. Just to make sure everything stays in place. Not just to make your stomach flat (if anything I`m skinny) but to keep jour pants from over stretching and wrinkling. I mean what the hell if I`m sewing it I might as well as try to experiment with it.

Now that the jeans are sewn and I`m wearing them every day I can say that I like all of that extra stuff that I sewed into them. They are comfortable and nice and flat. There are things that I would change and I will change when the next time I sew these pants but that high waist and extra interfacing is not one of them.

For now 🙂

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